Last weekend was a blessing. Saturday showers made for a relaxing day with friends. Sunday the sun came out and the climb was on. Hopped on "Go Granny Go Right" (V5). First session yielded some sweet progress: -Established all individual moves -Linked moves from start to arete -Linked moves from arete to topout
It's one of the reachiest cruxes I've come across thus far in Bishop, more reachy than Ketron for me. The key factor I discovered for the crux is controlling the swing. There doesn't seem to be any feet and the face itself has a glassy texture. Persistence tends to pay off - at the end of my session I worked the crux in isolation and found a low right toe that allows me to adjust right hand up the arete, shift the body further right, soften the swing as I pogo off of it to bring right foot to a good toe close to the arete.
It was such a great feeling to come to the end of the session and not that heavy burden of a long night drive back to the bay. It's a big difference to wake up and feel well rested and a sense that I have time to enjoy the Eastside at my leisure. I look back on the entire season that I did those long night drives and can't help but laugh at how long it took for this "aha!" moment to arrive. I reckon it won't be the last. The more time I spend out here, my mind ponders how to spend more time out here. I feel myself becoming more and more a part of Bishop community every time I come here. Part of me feels one foot is already out the door but I'm in no rush to figure things out. I feel as though the idea will arrive in its own time just as the recent one (adjusting my work schedule) has.