The absolute best thing we did in Cuba was take a 3.5-hour walking tour with an economist. We met Jorge at a park in my favorite neighborhood of Vedado, and he led us onto a public bus to take us to the Havana that most tourists don't see. He answered every question we had, and answered questions we didn't even know we had. What are typical salaries, and how do Cubans survive on such low salaries? What types of side hustles ("surges") are there? Why does the government condone these surges? How did Obama affect Cuba? How does Trump affect Cuba? Why are so many stores out of bottled water? Who supports Castro, and who doesn't? Why? What about Batista? Why are gas stations so crowded? Do the ration cards help at all anymore? Why doesn't Russia help Cuba more? How is social media helping Cubans? Why are the buildings crumbling? The amount of information we learned from Jorge was overwhelming. We ended the tour at his grandmother's home, and listening to them speak about the struggles and resilience of Cubans almost brought me to tears. Anyone who comes to Cuba MUST take this tour, otherwise you are missing out.